The Secret Is Out: The Southeast Asian Market in South Philly Is One of the Best in America

Franklin Delano Roosevelt (FDR) Park has stood as a public institution for more than a hundred years, and while the green space in Philadelphia thrived over the last century, with lush plant life blooming in every corner in spring, something else grew here: the Southeast Asian Market, which has quietly become one of the best food markets in the United States. 

Some four decades ago, Lao and Cambodian refugees fleeing war in their homelands made their way to the City of Brotherly Love to start anew. What they found was a strong and supportive diaspora alongside a larger Southeast Asian community looking to share bits and bites of their home with one another. 

It all began with a Laotian couple selling their papaya salad out of their van. It gradually grew into a family of vendors distributing their culture’s cuisine throughout the city, including in alleyways, on street corners, and throughout the park. Over the years, and between intermittent police busts, more Southeast Asian families joined in, selling their food whenever and wherever possible. 

That collection of families grew to a dozen and then a few dozen more. And rather than remain a secret, three entities — the Cambodian Association of Philly, the Vending Association of FDR Park, and FDR Park Leadership — came together to help legitimize their operations, so vendors no longer had to fear having their belongings confiscated by law enforcement. 

“Prior to 2020, the market was a target by police in the city,” Sarun Chan, the executive director of the FDR Southeast Asian Market, shared with Food & Wine. As Chan explained, the organizations stepped in to connect with the local police, showing them that the market had a solid connection to the park and an official point of contact. 

“We really want to make sure that this space is no longer targeted and can be just an important space for healing and sharing the flavors of their community,” Chan added. 

Today, the market’s board also provides vendors support and resources, including training and educational programming on obtaining the proper business license and preparing their taxes.

Indeed, this market is more than just a place to sell food. It transcends the boundaries of a traditional food market; it is a sanctuary of shared experiences and a testament to the resilience of the many immigrants and survivors of war that kept and continue to keep the market alive today. 

See and taste for yourself. Philadelphia offers a ton of delicious food options (we’re looking at you, cheesesteaks), and the Southeast Asian Market provides a unique taste of the city. Start your culinary journey by getting a cup of some fresh sugarcane juice or Vietnamese coffee. Next, move on to the stuffed Cambodian chicken wings, then to a container of mango and sticky rice for dessert. This is a true cornucopia of irresistible treats. You can’t go wrong trying just about everything. 

The market operates seasonally from April through October, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Bring cash, as many vendors exclusively accept paper payment. Check opening hours and preview the participating vendors at fdrseamarket.com.